The Ultimate Toyota Hilux N80 Accessories & Upgrades!
Toyota Hilux N80? Here's every upgrade worth doing, organised by build stage - power, comms, storage, protection and safety - with real install videos.
Toyota Hilux N80 Upgrades: The Complete Build Guide
"N80" is Toyota's internal chassis code for the Hilux built from 2015 onward - it's the generation that runs through the SR, SR5, Rogue and GR Sport, plus the closely related Fortuner. If your rego papers say anything from 2015 through to the current model, you're driving an N80, and almost every accessory on this page is going to bolt straight in.
That shared chassis is exactly why N80 owners have it easier than most when it comes to building a rig. One battery tray fits the SR and the Rogue. One aerial bracket works whether you've got a bull bar or not. You're not chasing model-year exceptions - you're picking accessories off a shelf that was designed around your specific engine bay and tub.
This guide runs through an N80 build the way we'd talk you through it at the counter: by build stage, not by product category. Power first, because everything else depends on it. Then comms, storage, protection and the smaller stuff that makes a tray feel finished rather than half-done.
Stage 1: Power - Give Your Fridge and Accessories Somewhere to Draw From
Every other upgrade on this list eventually wants power. Get this stage right first and you won't be retrofitting wiring around gear you've already bolted down.
Under-Bonnet Second Battery Mount
Our Under Bonnet Auxiliary Battery Mount drops into the factory-allocated second battery space in the engine bay - no drilling, no cutting. Built around a Delkor HDC27 (100Ah, 23kg) but also takes lithium options up to 190mm high. Note: it doesn't suit the 48V N80 variant.
$299 AUD · 304 grade stainless steel · Mounts a BCDC · Max 25kg rating
Battery-Mounted Fuse Holder
Once the second battery's in, the factory clamp isn't much use for running anything off it. The Battery Mounted Fuse Holder replaces it with a mounting point for Modular Midi fuses or a distribution box - a much cleaner way to split power to a fridge, lighting or a UHF than daisy-chaining off the terminal.
Under-Bonnet Air Compressor Mount
If air's part of the plan too, the Universal Under Bonnet Air Compressor Mount houses the ARB twin, ARB single or TJM single compressor in the engine bay, keeping it away from the tub entirely. About a ten-minute install, give or take how many breaks you take.
Browse the full Battery & Isolator range if you're weighing up battery size or charger compatibility before committing.
Stage 2: Comms - UHF and Aerial Mounting
A UHF radio bolted to the dash with a suction mount is one pothole away from being on the floor. These three fix that without touching the dash trim permanently.
UHF Handpiece Mount
The UHF Handpiece Mount sits at a proper angle toward the driver, runs off one factory 12V outlet, and fits GME, Uniden and Oricom handpieces. No drilling, no zip ties, about ten minutes to fit.
$70 AUD · Powder-coated steel · QLD made
UHF Mount Bundle
Starting from scratch rather than upgrading an existing setup? The UHF Mount Bundle packages a GME XRS-330 or XRS-370 radio with the under-bonnet aerial mount, module mount and handpiece mount in one order - saves piecing it together product by product.
Aerial Mount (Bonnet Hinge)
No bull bar or nudge bar to hang an aerial off? The bonnet hinge Aerial Mount gives you an alternative mounting point clear of the wipers and windscreen, and doubles as a buggy whip or flag mount if you need one for the dunes.
Stage 3: Storage & Security
Loose gear rattling around the tub or cab isn't just annoying - in a decent crash, anything unsecured becomes a projectile. This stage is about locking things down.
Rear Molle Window Panel
The Rear Molle Window Panel installs in about three minutes and turns dead cab space into mountable storage. Designed around airbag deployment zones, so it's not just bolted on and hoped for the best.
Full Side Tub Molle Panel
For the tray itself, the Full Side Tub Molle Panel gives you a mounting surface down the side of the tub for canvas bags, tools or recovery gear, instead of everything sliding around loose on every corrugation.
Pair these with our canvas storage bags to mix and match sizes across the molle panels - no point building the mounting points if you've got nothing that clips into them.
Stage 4: Underbody Protection
This is the stage most people skip until they've already hit something. Cheaper to sort it beforehand.
Under Body Protection - Engine, Transmission & Gearbox
Our Under Body Protection plates mount directly to factory points in 4mm stainless steel - the "mad max edition," as we call it internally, for anyone who tends to send it and needs saving from themselves. Worth noting: the plates cover part of the DPF, so check for leaf and grass build-up regularly to avoid a fire risk.
See the full Engine/Gearbox Protection range if you're comparing coverage across the sump, transfer case and steering.
Stage 5: Lighting & Safety
Behind-the-Grill Light Bar Kit
The Behind-the-Grill Light Bar Kit tucks a light bar in behind the factory grille rather than up on the roof or bar - keeps the factory look intact while adding real driving light.
Fire Extinguisher Bracket
The Fire Extinguisher Bracket mounts a 1kg extinguisher without eating into foot space - small thing, but it's the difference between having one in the vehicle and having one in easy reach when it actually matters.
N80 Build Stages at a Glance
| Build stage | Key product | Why it comes first/next |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Power | Under Bonnet Battery Mount | Every accessory after this one wants a power source |
| 2. Comms | UHF Handpiece Mount | Cheap, fast, and fixes the "radio on the floor" problem |
| 3. Storage | Full Side Tub Molle Panel | Locks gear down before it becomes a hazard in the tub |
| 4. Protection | Under Body Protection Plates | Cheaper before the first rock strike than after |
| 5. Lighting & Safety | Fire Extinguisher Bracket | Small addition, but the kind you're glad you did early |
Frequently Asked Questions
What does "N80" actually mean on a Hilux?
It's Toyota's internal chassis code for the Hilux generation built from 2015 onward, covering the SR, SR5, Rogue and GR Sport, plus the related Fortuner. If your Hilux is a 2015 model or newer, it's an N80.
Will these accessories fit the 48V mild-hybrid N80?
Not all of them - the under-bonnet battery mount specifically doesn't suit the 48V variant, as noted on the product page. Always check fitment notes before ordering if you're on the mild-hybrid model.
Do I need a battery isolator with the under-bonnet mount?
Yes - a dual battery system needs a way to charge the second battery safely. The mount is designed to work with common BCDC/DCDC chargers; check the Battery & Isolator collection for compatible options.
Can I install these myself?
Most brackets are DIY-friendly and use factory mounting points with supplied hardware. Electrical connections to a second battery should still go through a licensed auto electrician.
Where do I start if I'm building from scratch?
Power first. Everything from UHF radios to fridges eventually wants a stable 12V source, so getting the battery mount and fuse holder sorted early saves rewiring later.
Building the N80 That Suits How You Actually Use It
Not every N80 owner needs all five stages. A weekend fisherman might stop after the UHF and a molle panel. Someone doing the big lap wants power, protection and storage sorted before they leave the driveway.
What matters is building in an order that doesn't have you re-doing work - power before accessories that need it, protection before the track that tests it. Everything on this page is designed specifically around the N80 chassis, made in our Queensland workshop, and fitted without drilling into factory panels.
Ready to see the full range? Browse every N80 Hilux accessory we make, or head to the Mounting Brackets collection if you're after a specific bracket type across the whole range.
